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Chiaia Hotel de Charme. No views, but there's plenty of atmosphere in these converted first-floor apartments that occupy a spruce 18th-cen-tury palazzo, part of which includes a converted historic brothel. Above the fireplace in the cozy entrance hall, the distinguished looking chap with the moustache in the painting is the Marchese NicolaLe Caldano Sasso III, original owner of the building {though not, one assumes, the brothel), whose granddaughter Mimi now runs the place. Antiques, many of them original to the Marquis's home, give a personal touch to the el­egant, air-conditioned, period-feel bedrooms (most have whirlpool baths), A two-minute walk from Piazza Plebiscite and the Royal Palace and a stagger from the liveliest nightlife in town in the back streets around Piazza dei Martiri, this also has a top location (although its Via Chiaia locale is not quite within the purview of the Riviera di Chiaia district, covered separately belowjjTlf you're anxious to get out in the morning, vouchers for breakfast inine nearby Gambrinus caffe or the Barcadero at the Borgo Marinaro are available on request. E3 Via Chiaia 216, Chi­aia, 80121 ffl081/415555 S081/422344 $www.hotelchiaia.it ^27 rooms 6 Bar B AE, DC, MC, V !©l BE