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PAULINE FROMMER
Chiaja Hotel de Charme***(via chiaia 216; 081-415555; www.hotelchiaia.it). It wasn't long ago that a lively brothel next door serviced many of the city's politicians and bankers, but the hotel recently bough it to add to its ecletic collection of individually dsigned rooms. This place simply oozes with character. The furnishings are all original antiques, most of which belonged  to the former owner, the Marquis Nicola Lecaldano Sasso III. Nobody seems to remember who or what he did, but his taste in forniture was fondrful. The double rooms have enormous beds (not just two singles pushed together), and come with jacuzzi tubs and tiny balconies overlooking the Via Chiaia.